Kandersteg - Ueschinen (Las Palmas)

Only discovered recently by Markus Stofer, but after the first route (Krass) got put up in November 2002 Ueschinen has been called on by just about every member in Europe’s top ice scene. In no time there were over 20 single pitces, including the worlds’ second M12. Routes are well protected so bring a lot of quickdraws and just a few short express ice screws. Most of the time you’ll climb to an ice curtain over solid rock, passing a few miraculous icicles on the way. Some routes pass no ice at all and can be climbed on a hot summer day. In the winter, only go if it is sub zero, because you might behead an icicle and spoil the route for the rest of the season. Routes can be very steep, so be careful clipping that second or third quickdraw. More than 10 (mostly lucky) groundfalls have happened yet. The distance to the ground is shorter than you think. It’s clever and common use to preclip the first 2 to 3 bolts.
The Place, esp. when many people are there, has "klettergarten-" character. Make sure to never walk or stand below the icicles, esp. those hanging from the curtain. There has been a fatal accident in 2004!
Direction
From Bern follow the highway to Interlaken. Exit at Spiez and continue in direction Kandersteg. Exit at Kandersteg and drive through town in direction Sunnbuel. You’ll pass climbing area Oeschinenwald and Kandersteg itself. The road that winds up can be snow-covered in late winter. If so, park and follow the right road up on ski for 75 minutes. The way back is quite a friendly descent. Otherwise get those chains out and drive up for about 4.5km, keeping left in Ueschinen valley. You’ll see the area on your left. Leave your car near a few houses just before the road gets steeper.

Routes
1. Furio M8- mixed Markus Stofer (mac) (2 drilled holes to 2nd bolt)
1a. Manga M10 (+?) dry mac J
2. Tooltime M10+ dry mac J
3. Grädi-i M9+/10- dry Stefan Siegrist J
4. It’s lonely on the toilet M10 dry Maikel van Sundert J
5. Carabus problematicus M10 dry mac J
6. Powerbat M9+/10- mixed Roger Schaeli J
6a. Power Limit M10 dry start powerbat, exit vertical limit/grädi-i J
7. Slice of Scheiss M9+/10- mixed Simon Anthamatten J
8. Pink Panther M9+ mixed Stefan Siegrist JJ
9. Twin Towers M10- (M10 no towers) mixed Simon Anthamatten J
Mission Possible M11? mixed Robert Jasper
10. Vertical Limit M12 dry Robert Jasper K
10a. No Limit M12(+???) dry Rob, start pink think, exit tooltime K
11. Flash M9+ mixed Robert Jasper J
12. Klara Winter M8+ mixed Maikel van Sundert J
13. Pink Think M8+/M9- mixed Ralf Weber K
14. Via Regine M8+ mixed Roger Schaeli K
15. Grohuhnding M7 mixed Roger Schaeli *
16. Toti Aeuega M9- dry Samuel Anthamatten J
17. Krass M8 dry mac, Maikel van Sundert J
18. Kombination M8+ dry mac *
19. Steinzeit M8- (M7+ zu zw.stand) dry mac K
20. Maikels letzter Streich ca. M9 dry Maikel van Sundert (lacks 1 bolt)
21. Roth? M8- mixed mac K
22. Puja M8 mixed mac K
23. Permafrost M7+ mixed mac J
24. Luuuser M6+ mixed mac K
25. Kinder Pinkeln M7- mixed mac K
26. Projekt ca. M7/8 mixed Bernd Rathmayr K
27. Samurai M8-? mixed Scott Muir K
28. Simsam Labim M9- dry mac K